9/4/17: Zero Day in Snoqualmie Pass

Today is Wolf Bird’s birthday!!!! I am so grateful to have him as my hiking partner on this trail and truly couldn’t have gotten through some of my toughest days and scary sections without him by my side. I have been really excited that we get to celebrate his birthday on the trail together.

For the past month or so, I have been trying to think of creative gifts I can give him that aren’t heavy that I can secretly carry in my pack. Back in Packwood, I bought a bunch of lottery scratchers as well as a pack of balloons. Then when we stopped in Greenwater (when Devilfish was driving us around), I got him a cool Bigfoot birthday card. I had no idea we’d be in town on his actual birthday… if I had known I probably would have tried to ship a gift here. Oh well.

Anyway, my plan was to decorate our tent with all the balloons so Wolf Bird would wake up and be surprised by his birthday decorations. Since we were in town, though, me, Wolf Bird, and Tofu each got our own bunk in a giant bunkroom.  I figured decorating this area was a good replacement for decorating the tent. The problem was that I was waiting for Wolf Bird to fall into a deep sleep all night, but it seemed to never happen! He would start to snore for a minute and just when I was going to get out of bed to go get the balloons I had prepped and blown up ahead of time, he would stir and wake himself up. I found myself waiting and waiting and having trouble staying awake listening to his breathing to see if he was asleep. Eventually he got up to go to the bathroom, which was a long walk down a couple floors in the giant cabin. I debated trying to speedily set everything up while he was gone, but couldn’t even peel the duct tape quickly so decided against it. I eventually gave up around 2AM and figured it wasn’t worth getting no sleep, so I let myself go to bed.

When I awoke in the morning, Wolf Bird was already up and out of the room. Dammit! I decided to just throw the balloons all around his bunk area where his stuff was and then texted him to come up to the bunkroom. He came up in a minute and laughed upon finding all the balloons sitting sadly on his empty bed. Oh well, I tried! He appreciated my effort and made me lay amongst the balloons for a photo.

We planned to head out today around midafternoon. Wolf Bird, Tofu, and I walked the half mile into town to grab a birthday breakfast! Overnight, smoke had settled into the area and we could no longer see the mountains that surrounded us on either side–they were completely shrouded in smoke. My leg was really hurting me and I had to hobble/walk quite slowly into town. We went to a restaurant at the hotel in town and had an unsatisfactory meal, but enjoyed each other’s company. After breakfast, the three of us headed to a coffee shop to work on our blog and use their wifi. We did this for a couple hours and then had to stop and get more food at Aadvark Food Truck. We ate some tasty curry bowls (and enjoyed a free beer each!) and then picked up our resupply packages, which were inside a non-functioning freezer at the local Chevron. We literally just walked into the gas station and walked into the freezer and looked through the hundred or so packages until we found ours, and then just took them… not the most secure system.

After all of these town chores, we set out for the cabin again to get our stuff together and get ready to head back to trail. My leg was still hurting me quite a bit on this super short and easy walk back to the cabin. I was growing worried about being able to hike out and what I could do–I really didn’t want to take multiple days off, which I think would be the only real solution to get my leg feeling better. Back at the cabin, Tofu was efficient as usual and set out. We told her we’d be heading out right after her and we all planned to camp at a lake about 5 miles up the trail.

After she left though, Wolf Bird and I discussed what to do with my leg feeling how it was. We were literally putting on our socks and shoes when I made the tough decision that it would probably be smartest to rest my leg and ice it some more and just head out tomorrow morning. I was really torn about it, but was hoping that 12 more hours of rest would do some good.

This meant today was an unplanned zero day. It seemed like a good day to do so–Wolf Bird could really relax on his birthday! I showed him a video I made for him that was a compilation of happy birthday videos from his thoughtful friends across the country. We then got pizza for dinner and pigged out together before then relaxing in the comfortable living room area. I read a book of climbing accidents which was super terrifying but I like reading about that stuff for some reason. Wolf Bird then watched a couple of episodes of Master of None.

Reading about horrifying climbing accidents… great way to spend a day off.

Eventually a group of four or so more hikers arrived at the cabin–we had pretty much the entire place to ourselves until they arrived. We all went to bed pretty early and planned to get up early to do a full day’s hike tomorrow. Not necessarily the most exciting birthday for Wolf Bird, and not what we planned, but I was glad we got to spend the day together.

9/3/2017 Unused Dirt Road Mile 2368.2 to Snoqualmie Pass 2390.6

This morning we woke up feeling a little groggy but excited to reach Snoqualmie. Tofu didn’t make it to our site but we assumed that she was only a few miles behind. 

After packing up we set out to cover the 23 miles to the pass over rolling hills lined with huckleberries. The views of the cascades were pleasant and it warmed up quickly though our muscles did not.  Sherpa has been experiencing some really intense pain behind her knee and in her shin. The rocky trail with steep decents didn’t make things any easier on her and she struggled all day to find a solution.

The only real thing of note that happened all morning was the constant gunfire in the background. I haven’t seen so many enthusiastic hunters since I lived in Pennsylvania. About halfway to our destination it was starting to get really hot and we arrived at Mirror Lake. We paused to give Sherpa’s leg a little rest and get water. I couldn’t resist jumping in for a quick swim and it was well worth it. 

After I put my clothes back on we hit the trail again and passed many beautiful overlooks of the lake on the way. 

We hiked the last 10 miles slowly to try and minimize the pain for Sherpa and arrived at Snoqualmie around 3:30 p.m. and headed straight to the BBQ restaurant. Before long Tofu paid us a visit on her way to the Ardvark food truck. 

After we filled up on Pepsi and food we went to the Dru Bru brewery for a flight. There Tofu met up with us and eventually Nimbles and Yeti joined as well. The end is feeling so close. We are only 250ish miles from Manning Park. It’s a little scary to think we could easily finish in 10 days. 

We chatted and drank for a while then headed to the Washington Alpine Club to sleep. The WAC is this amazing, huge cabin that sleeps 70 and alows hikers to stay for only $10, which includes shower, power, bunk, and use of kitchen. 
We were so amazed by this little gem and were excited to hang out tomorrow and check out the many books in the living room area. The cabin is unlike anything i have seen out east. Members can come and bring up to 7 guests and use the facilities any time they are open. Many skiiers, mountaineers and hikers have passed through this lodge. 

After chatting and exploring the cabin we went off to our separate, huge bunks and drifted to sleep like little hiker babies. 

9/2/17: Dewey Lake Tentsite Mile 2318.1 to Unused Dirt Road Tentsite Mile 2368.3

I was awakened last night by the strong smell of smoke. I had to look around to make sure there wasn’t an actual fire right near us. Apparently Wolf Bird and Tofu were also awakened in the night, but by the bugle sounds of elks and from rustling near our tents. I slept right through those noises surprisingly!

We got up and set out to hike the 4ish miles to the road at Chinook Pass. From Chinook Pass to Mike Ulrich Cabin (about 25 miles), the PCT is closed as the Norse Peak Fire is close to the trail. Our hike to the road was pretty uneventful. We passed a bunch of day hikers (apparently there is a loop trail that is popular) and saw all the smoke from the nearby fire. It was pretty crazy to see the insane amount of smoke hanging over the valley.

Once at the road, we tried hitching, but at 8:00AM on a weekend morning, not many people were driving by or finishing up their hikes. We started to walk down the road, which had an amazing view of Mt. Rainier, hoping that we could get a hitch as we walked.  Within minutes a red minivan stopped and asked if we needed a ride. We of course said yes and got in and discovered the driver was a previous PCT thru-hiker, Devilfish. He has been providing rides to hikers around fire closures and has also stocked water caches along the trail–hiker turned trail angel!

Tofu was trying to arrange to meet a friend at the next town, but hadn’t had phone service to get out a message to him, so she asked Devilfish if we could stop at the Starbucks we’d heard about from workers at Kracker Barrel. Devilfish obliged and drove us to the tiny town of Greenwater, which was more like a cluster of 6 or so buildings than an actual town. There was definitely no Starbucks here! We asked him to stop at the General Store instead but there was no wifi and no breakfast sandwiches or coffee (which we were now craving) to be found. He generously was willing to then drive us just up the road to a store that also had a small cafe inside. Walking in, we saw some people holding Starbucks cups! What?! Once in the cafe area, we discovered this used to be one of the first places to brew Starbucks and although not an actual Starbucks location, they still are given leftover cups and coffee from Starbucks. Tofu got wifi here to send a message to her friend and we also got our breakfast sandwiches and coffee. Score!

Finally we were ready to get back to the trail. Devilfish was willing to drive us all the way to within a half mile of the Mike Ulrich cabin! We passed DK and Dosu, a couple of fellow thru hikers, on the drive there. They were walking the road to the cabin, determined to walk every step to Canada even on roads that aren’t officially trail. We admired their determination but were also happy in our choice to hike as much as the open trail as is possible. We also passed Jackpot and Storm walking the road, but they gladly accepted a ride from Devilfish as they decided they had walked enough road miles to make up for the closed trail and didn’t need to walk the rest of the way.

Devilfish dropped us off and we thanked him profusely and headed up a side trail toward the cabin. Wolf Bird, Tofu, and I went into the cabin, mostly used as shelter in the winter for snowmobilers, and lounged for a bit, lazily trying to delay the inevitable.  Finally we set out to hike and within 10 minutes I was screaming in pain! I had gotten stung in two places by bees! I later found out I had walked right by a piece of a beehive that had fallen on the the trail. I hadn’t even noticed it! I screamed in pain and yelled back to Wolf Bird to watch out. He of course selflessly used his poles to try to move the hive off the trail and got two stings himself in the process.

Wow, I was in a lot of pain from that! I got stung on my thigh and it started swelling up and turning red–one of the most painful bee stings I’ve ever had. It eventually started feeling better and I waited for Wolf Bird and Tofu at mile 2345.67 so we could take a photo of this milestone. However, the area around the sting would remain inflamed and discolored for over a week.

The trail went up and down and through a previously burned section where only charred trees remained. This was much hotter to walk through, without a canopy of leaves overhead to block the sun. Eventually we rounded a corner and crossed a dirt road where we came upon Yeti on the phone, a rare spot with phone service. There was a clear view from this spot and we could see the immense billows of smoke from the Norse Peak Fire. It was insane just how much smoke there was. We hiked near Yeti for a bit and leap-frogged with him and Nimbles for part of the afternoon.

 

We had a long downhill and behind my knee started hurting a bit by the end. At the bottom of the hill we stopped to fill up on water and I took some Ibuprofen to help with my leg. We stopped and snacked for a while and I was surprised Tofu didn’t catch up.

From here, we had a long uphill section for the remainder of the day. The first part was steeper and Wolf Bird went in front and I didn’t see him again until we got to camp. It was a nice change to hike alone for a bit and once the uphill mellowed out it was peaceful hiking as the sun started to set. The trail followed a ridgeline for a while and it was very distracting to see the billowing smoke in the distance… I nearly walked off the trail several times because I was so mesmerized watching it. I also picked a ton of huckleberries which slowed me down a bit.

About a half mile out of camp, I ran into Two Pass and Kraken and chatted with them for a bit as we stopped to fill up on water before getting to camp. I arrived to find Wolf Bird eating dinner. He had already set up the tent, which was super nice to not have to do since it was growing dark. I cooked my own dinner and did chores and we discussed whether we thought Tofu would come. We had all felt pretty lazy back at the cabin today, so we weren’t surprised that she probably camped just a few miles back.  We were sure we’d be reunited tomorrow anyway.

9/1/2017: White Pass 2292.4 to Dewey Lake Tentsite Mile 2318.1

Today we were not in a rush to get moving and leave White’s Pass. Tofu and her dad, Mike, were kind enough to let us crash in their lodge room and we all didn’t need to be out of the room until 11. Mike left around 8 or 9 and the three of us were determined to milk every minute of civilization before heading back into the woods.

11 am came sooner than we hoped and it was time to walk again. We knew that we only had a short section that was open before we would have to skip a section of trail due to the Norse Peak fire, but we were eager to get the section from Whites Pass to Chinook completed before they close it again.

The trail was beautiful all day and we had great weather. Along the route to our destination of Dewey Lake we passed several beautiful lakes, ponds, and bridges. Early in the day we were dodging lots of fresh horse droppings to the point where we were really starting to get annoyed. I saw one pile and commented that we must be right behind the offending horses and sure enough we came to a clearing and a lake where a group of beautiful ponies were tied to trees next to their owners that were lounging on the edge of the lake.

After we passed that group the horse poop was less frequent and much less fresh. Soon we were climbing a mountain and at the top of the ridge we entered Mt Rainier National Park. The three of us separated as we hiked on and I noticed that there were great plumes of smoke off to the east of the trail signaling a large fire. Luckily the wind was such that the trail was completely smoke free, even though we were less than a few miles away.

I descended to Dewey Lake and when I arrived I quickly stripped down and jumped in the water. The water was a perfect temperature for an evening dip and I tried to wash up as quickly as I could before someone showed up. Sherpa popped out of nowhere before I got my clothes back on and surprised me. I helped get her water.  We had a quick argument about where the tent should go but we were able to resolve it and headed off to make camp on a nice flat spot.

Soon Tofu joined us and we hung out for a little while before turning in. Tofu also went down to the water for a dip while Sherpa and I ate dinner and got ready for bed. She came back shivering saying that the water was cold.

After getting in our tents we fell asleep quickly but Tofu and I were both woken up several times during the night to hear lots of rustling and the eerie sound of an Elk bellowing across the lake.In addition to the bazar sounds smoke started to surround us and it was stifling. It was scary because we knew that the fire was only a few miles away hours ago and we had no idea how intense it was getting. Tofu whispered to our tent that she was glad that we were here.

We eventually all settled and ignored the smoke and wrestles creatures all around and slept like little hiker babies.