Author: Julie Blouin

Miles today: 18.1

Total miles: 814.7

I wasn’t looking forward to the hike today because the elevation profile in my guide book showed tons of tiny up and downs. I hate those. I would so much rather have a couple big mountains to climb than hill after tiny hill. They just wear me out. On top of that, the weather was just a tad uncomfortably hot to hike in. Some days are just harder than others to find motivation and this was one of those days. I struggled up the many hills that in actuality weren’t that bad, but were made worse by my poor outlook. On the bright side, I didn’t miss a part where the trail turned, which I later found out Blondie, Delta, AND Timeless had all missed and ended up walking 2+ miles out of their way.

Blondie kept waiting for me every few miles and we’d take a break together. He simply cruises along seemingly effortlessly as I was dying, gasping for air, up the little hills. My day was made much better, however, when midafternoon I came across every hiker’s dream: trail magic! A wonderful trail angel had left a cooler full of fruit, granola bars, apple sauce, ramen, batteries–everything imagineable–by the trail at a road crossing. I was SO happy. I haven’t had trail magic of this sort–where a cooler or food is just left there–since Vermont before I got off trail for my knees. I kind of expected we wouldn’t get any more because all the Northbounders have passed already. But New York surprised me and some wonderful trail angel DOES care about southbounders. My day got way better as Blondie and I sat there pigging out (even though it was RIGHT after we’d taken a lunch break).

As we sat, we debated whether to continute to our planned shelter for the night, which would be a 19 mile day or to call these trail angels I’d heard about, which would shorten our day to maybe 15, a somewhat significant difference. We debated back and forth and then decided to at least call and see if the trail angels were even still hosting hikers. I called and John answered and was so friendly. He said they definitely will host us and to Blondie and my delight they’d pick us up at a road crossing further down the trail so we’d still be able to get in 18 miles today! That was settled-we’d stay with them. We had 6.6 miles to go to the road crossing where John would pick us up. I was still struggling with the frustrating ups and downs and heat, but I put in my headphones, blasted music and put my head down and was at the road crossing in a couple hours.

I was glad to have that day behind me. John came and picked us up and took me and Blondie to his house. We met his wife Susan, their two dogs Emily and Abigail, and their chickens. I took a hot shower with the most amazing water pressure I’ve felt in a long time, grateful for my first shower since MA. We got to do laundry too. And, on top of all that, they cooked us dinner. On the menu was mexican, complete with margaritas. We were in heaven. John and Susan were so kind and laidback, and just made us feel so comfortable. We even had ice cream for dessert. We sat around relaxing and reading past our bedtimes and I slept so well on a real bed.

Miles today: 16.5

Total miles: 796.6

We woke up this morning with our tents all wet from the dew and condensation overnight. It sucks having to pack a wet tent, but oh well. I didn’t eat breakfast because 0.5 miles down the trail from the monastery is a deli/gas station. Apparently people do a ‘tour de delis’ in New York since there are many very close to the trail, but this would be my first and only. It was a really interesting experience, as there aren’t gas stations that also function as delis/take out food places in MA. I got The Works for breakfast and ate my delicious eggs, french toast, bacon, ham, sausage, and coffee in record time as I watched the many locals bustling in and out of the store. This place must make a killing–there was not a lull in business the entire hour or so I was there. Blondie and I also resupplied here, which was not ideal, as their selection of food was what most gas stations have: lots of junk food. Luckily we were only getting three days worth of food so it wasn’t that bad, although it was definitely pricier than a grocery store.

We finally set out hiking at a late 10 am.  New York has been quite the odd experience. Pizza to a shelter two days ago, camping at a monastery’s baseball field yesterday, and today… the zoo! About six miles down the trail this morning, the trail crosses the Bear Mountain bridge. That was a cool experience–crossing the busy bridge on the sidewalk next to tons of traffic, with views of the Hudson and mountains with hints of changing leaves of fall. Right after the bridge the actual trail goes through a zoo. So weird. We followed the trail along the paths of the rather small zoo to the lowest point on the entire AT: the bear exhibit. These captive bears are first bears of my entire hike that I’ve seen. Blondie, Buzz, and I also explored the reptile exhibit and then hit up the overpriced ice cream vending machines. We were being super lazy today which has become somewhat of a theme lately, but it was nice just hanging out enjoying the nice fall weather. There was a beautiful recreation area with picnic tables right next to a lake with trees displaying their reds and oranges of fall.

After the lake, we had a climb up Bear Mountain. I was not looking forward to the uphill 1000 foot climb, but I had Buzz, Blondie, and Timeless to keep me company. We trudged up stairs the entire way up the mountain. I can’t imagine how many years it must have taken to make stones into stairs that far up. This was another one of those weird mountains where you can also drive to the top, so we got to the top to find many tourists that had driven up.

Far in the distance you could make out the New York City skyline which was so insane. I couldn’t believe we were that close to NYC. And that I walked here from Maine! There was a lookout tower with views all around and we had a great clear day for it. From the top of Bear Mountain we set out the next 7 or so miles to the shelter. The shelters in NY have all been kind of gross and dirty and full of trash. I think because many of them are close to roads so more people visit and leave trash behind.

Miles today: 18.8
Total miles: 780.1

I ate some leftover pizza for breakfast this morning. What a crazy experience being able to order a pizza to a shelter. It’s nice and delicious on one hand but on the other it’s kind of sad how hard it can be to escape civilization sometimes.

Oh well. My knees were really bothering me toward the end of the day yesterday and also hurt a bit today. I wore my knee brace for the first time in a couple weeks and that helped, along with ibuprofen. The day was as it has been lately. Pretty lazy with long breaks but still making decent time. It was nice having extra company too. I’m so grateful for having other people around now that I’ve gotten a taste of what it’s like hiking completely alone. I enjoyed Blondie, timeless and buzz’s company throughout the day. Saw some deer in the woods today which was nice.

At one point in the day, Blondie and i switched packs for a couple miles. No wonder he walks so fast!! His pack weighed next to nothing. It was lighter than my backpack I wore in college. Lighter than my purse. It was insane, I felt like I was carrying pillows and could run up hills. Those were the most liberating couple of miles of my hike. Then we switched back. And I was very sad and have vowed to find a way to make my pack as light as his (preferably without spending all the money I have). Seriously though, I feel like my hike would be entirely different both physically and mentally if my pack were light. I shall update if I find a way to make this happen.

Our destination for the day was a spiritual center that allows hikers to camp at its baseball field. We got there and it was on a beautiful quiet campus where I think friars live? It is so kind to provide this space. There was a little pavilion with ELECTRICITY! Lights, how strange. And plugs to charge our phones! I got there and enjoyed sitting in the warm sun while cooking my dinner at a picnic table and calling some friends. Blondie, buzz, Timeless, and Delta also stayed there. Timeless made us a nice fire and we roasted marshmallows and stayed up later than usual talking. The moon was nearly full and was so bright over the open field. We didn’t even need headlamps to see.

Miles today: 16.8
Total miles: 761.3

It was so nice to sleep in today. I still woke up early at 6 something but enjoyed drifting in and out of sleep until almost 9. Blondie and I left the shelter by 10 and had an easy day ahead of us. We were headed to RPH shelter 16.8 miles away for one reason: pizza. A couple pizza place actually deliver pizza to the shelter since I guess it’s pretty close to a road. The promise of pizza convinced us to do a bit of a shorter day.

The day went by quickly and easily and we were at RPH shelter by 5, even with our late start and many breaks. The shelter was actually more like a cabin. It had a door and windows and actual bunk beds, a yard, and plenty of chairs and picnic tables. Two guys, Buzz and Timeless were also at the shelter. Buzz is a southbound thru hiker from Germany. A ton of Germans hike because I guess there is some german documentary about the ATthat has convinced many to come. Timeless is from MA and is just out hiking a section for three or so weeks.
Together we looked up the pizza menu on my phone and called to place our order. We had to wait 45 minutes and were all pretty freezing as the sun went down but pizza was worth it! About an hour later two pizza delivery boys come walking up to the shelter carrying stacks of pizza. It was a hilarious sight. These two 16 year olds kids bringing food and four starving hikers jumping to their feet running to meet them. After some minor issues with paying we finally secured our pizzas. I ate mine sitting in my sleeping bag since it was so chilly. We all got larges which turned out to be large even for hikers. I had leftovers for three days. As evidence of how much hikers like food, I texted delta to come for pizza even though he was 17 miles away at 3pm. He came anyway (after hiking the whole day before that) getting there in the dark at 930ish. Pizza. It’s a powerful tool.

Miles today: 21.2
Total miles: 744.5

Not too much notable stuff happened this morning and early afternoon. Blondie and I took many breaks but still made pretty decent time. The trail crosses a road right by a garden center at mile 17 or so and we got there by 4ish. They sell snacks and sodas to hikers and even allow hikers to shower there. I enjoyed a coke AND dr pepper while Blondie showered. I didn’t shower because I didn’t want to be cold with wet hair (and because I’m gross obviously). We set out around five for the last few miles to the shelter. We first passed the Appalachian Trail train station. It only runs on weekends and only at two times but a lot of people use it to get into the city. Unfortunately I’m not going into NYC since I took so much time off already but it was cool albeit a little eerie to see the totally empty station.

We got to the shelter at 6 something and had the place to ourselves! And it was a big shelter so it felt luxurious. We went to bed excited because we have a short easy 16 miles tomorrow and are allowing ourselves to sleep in.

Miles today: 17.3
Total miles: 723.3
It was a nice easy day today, complete with a five mile flat section along the Housatonic River. It was so enjoyable: the air was crisp and leaves were falling to the ground as I walked beside the river glistening in the fall sun. There were sections with rolling fields and bales of hay and trees changing colors in the mountains in the distance.

Before getting to this serene setting I had to descend a hill. As I was nearing the bottom by the river, a dog came barreling up the hill full speed at me. It didn’t slow down as it got to me and was jumping up at me and baring its teeth. Its owners down below yelled “you can kick her!!” which I definitely did not. But I did try to fend her off with my poles as she lunged toward my face. She wasn’t biting but her visible teeth and relentless jumping was slightly terrifying. Her owners caught up and apologized and I found out the dog was a Rottweiler Doberman mix, which made me realize part of the reason she was so terrifying. In reality she was just an excited puppy but she caught up to me twice more in the day and each time I was slightly scared shed bite me. My luck with animals lately is not the best.

I hiked with Blondie all day. Or more like I hiked behind him as he sprinted and then waited for me every now and then. Our plan was to go into Kent CT at the end of the day for dinner and then after dinner go back to the trail and walk 0.3 to the next shelter. We’d heard Kent isn’t the most hiker friendly. In fact, the laundromat has banned hikers. Granted, the reason is that one thru hiker stripped naked to wash his clothes there, but still. As soon as we got to the road into Kent we ran into a family that was so Connecticut. They were wearing polos and khakis and one even had a sweater draped around them. And this was for a walk in the woods they were doing. Blondie and I talked to them and they were really friendly but it was just funny how different the people seemed from other towns we’ve been to. At the road we also met a thru hiker I haven’t met yet. I was super excited because she was a girl–there are no other girl hikers around, I miss my shuffle. Anyway, her name was Mosey and she was pretty quiet and shy and no where near as excited to meet me as I was to meet her.

Blondie and I walked into kent and passed the fanciest looking buildings which we deduced belonged to a fancy boarding school, the Kent School. A lot of people stared at us. We started worrying a little about going into town. BUT THEN. The best thing ever happened. This woman holding a covered plate approached us and asked if we wanted the plate. She lifted the cover to reveal a plate full of brownies, cookies, and chocolate covered strawberries. She said she thought we could use the calories and gave us the plate. Our opinion of the town immediately changed and we devoured the entire plate. The rest of our stay in town wasn’t too eventful. We resupplied and got dinner at a pizza place where we watched some football and relaxed. We headed out for the shelter around 7 as it was getting dark and set up our tents an went to bed.

Miles today: 19.8
Total miles: 706
Today I was planning to meet my sister and her girls for lunch in Falls Village CT, about 12 miles from the shelter. The boys wanted to go into the first town the trail crossed, Salisbury, about four miles from the shelter. So I said bye to them as they went to get food and I did my best to get to Falls Village by 1.

The rolling hills and trail were easy and I made it to Water St in Falls village by a little after 12. Since we planned to meet at 1, I walked another 2.5 miles to a different road crossing. Once there, Lisa actually drove right by me walking along the road. She stopped and picked me up and her and the girls did a great job tolerating my I’m sure unpleasant hiker smell.

We got lunch at a little cafe, one of the only businesses in the tiny town. It was so great to see them and hear about what they’ve been up to and tell them stories of the trail. I’m so lucky to have family that will drive hours out of their way just for a quick lunch. It was a definite morale boost and I’m so grateful for it.

After lunch, they dropped me off at the trail and I quickly ran into a couple I’d met way back in Rutland VT rigt before I had to get off trail for my knee. It was good to see them, but I won’t be hiking with them as they are going very slow in order to coordinate timing for a train to a wedding they are going to in a week.

I got a text from Cool blue that him and Wolf bird are in Kent already. What?! That’s at least two days hiking away, close to the NY border. He said while they were in Salisbury, a woman whose husband is a vet on NYC, offered to drive them and Mabel to Kent and give Mabel free surgery to fix a ruptured cyst on her leg. Mabel’s leg looked pretty painful and gross so I’m glad she’s getting it fixed. But this meant the boys were done hiking until after they get back from Chicago. So I won’t get to see them before they leave, but oh well. I’m sure once they are back in a week and a half they’ll catch up to me quickly.

The rest of my hiking day was uneventful. I got to the shelter to find Blondie (who didn’t go with wolf bird and cool blue) and Grub. grub is another Southbounder I haven’t seen since Rangeley Maine. It was so great to see him–it’s crazy how even though I didn’t hike very much with him seeing him felt like a reunion of long lost friends. He actually just got back on trail after ten days off sick with giardia. He skipped a section of Vermont and MA so he wouldn’t be super far behind. Later in the evening the three of us were joined by a flip flop hiker named Sun Driven. He was quite the talker and as such I learned a lot about his life. He told some funny stories but did keep me up a bit past my bedtime with all his talking. It was worth it for the entertainment factor though.
A good part of today was discovering the trail is now easy enough and I hike fast enough to be able to take a couple hour lunch break and still put in a twenty mile day before 6 pm.

Miles today: 18
Total miles: 686.2

Wolf Bird made us a great breakfast this morning of scrambled eggs and mushrooms, English muffins, coffee, and orange juice. We hung around all morning and got back on trail by 11 or so. We said goodbye to Andrew and his friend jimmy and thanked them for their incredible hospitality.

We had three mountains to climb today. As much as I hate uphills, I kind of enjoyed the way the mountains broke up the day, giving me tasks to accomplish. Cool Blues shins were hurting him so I went in front of him, rather than bringing up the rear as I’ve been doing with the boys without shuffle to go last. I hiked behind Wolf bird and Blondie all day. Or so I thought. I was behind them but couldn’t seem to catch them. Usually they will break every couple hours or at least for lunch, giving me a chance to catch up. But today I couldn’t seem to catch them. Mountain after mountain went by and still no sign. I was hustling too since we got such a late start and had to go 18 miles. I figured they were also hustling so I took my breaks alone.

All day it looked like impending rain but luckily it never did. We hadn’t discussed exactly which shelter we were going to at the end of the day. There are two right near each other, 1.2 miles apart. As I got close to the first one I was really hoping Wolf Bird and Blondie had stopped there for the night. I was tired and it was getting late and I just wanted to stop. But of course upon getting to the shelter I found it empty. I sucked it up and set out for the next shelter. On the way there a deer sprinted out of the trees across the trail in front of me scaring me to death. When I finally got to the next shelter around 6:30, I was surprised to find it also empty. Had wolf bird and Blondie gone on?? How come they weren’t there? I texted Blondie and Cool blue (wolf bird lost his phone of course) and found out blue was at the previous shelter. I told him to come to the one I was at. A little while later he came , along with wolf bird and Blondie. Apparently I’d been in front of them all day with no idea. They’d stopped for lunch at a shelter way earlier and I’d walked right by (the shelter was a little off trail). Somehow I was walking fast enough they didn’t catch up to me. I was glad to see them though and it was nice of them to come to the next shelter–they’d already gotten out their sleeping bags and such at the earlier shelter but packed back up to come to me.
It was a nice fall day made even better by completing yet another state! We crossed over into our fifth state Connecticut today.