We were very happy to have our own private space in our treehouse last night. We woke up early and I (Sherpa) discovered her phone hadn’t charged overnight! Not good when your phone functions as your camera, music source, communication device, and trail gps. I plugged in my phone and hoped it would charge by the time we left. We enjoyed an amazing free breakfast and then all 25ish of us piled into a bunch of cars to head to the trailhead. The drivers are all volunteers and we are so grateful for such generosity. I grabbed my phone before hopping in the car only to discover my charging cord must have broke so I had to start the trail with only a half charged phone.
We rode to the trail with three generations of a family hiking together–a grandpa, mom, and 10 year old girl. We got to the monument at the southern terminus around 7AM and the big group of us took turns taking photos. Wolf Bird and I set off pretty quickly after while others were still milling about, in hopes of beating the heat and avoiding hiking in a huge herd of people.
Our first pile passed super quickly. The terrain was pretty flat and easy but it started heating up in no time. The desert was so different for us! So many unfamiliar plants and flowers and wildlife. We saw bunnies and hummingbirds and lizards. We could see pretty far into the distance, as there is only really small cacti and desert plants-no trees to block the view.
We took a few breaks, growing more frequent as it got hotter. We spent time figuring out how to hide from the sun–using hats and trying to rig up our umbrellas to our packs so we could walk without having to hold them with our hands. We took a couple hour break at mile 15 at Hauser Creek where there was shade and water and a bunch of other people resting.
We set out around 3PM to walk the final five miles of the day, which started with a big climb. We would soon discover this was not the smartest decision. The sun was so incredibly strong and there was no shade. The temperature was probably high 80s but I’m sure the heat index was far higher. Wolf Bird seemed to be doing okay, but I had to stop every 50 yards or so. My heart was racing and I was sweating so much and was so tired. Maybe we should have waited until it was cooler…
I was very grateful to have Wolf Bird to encourage and support me and we staggered (well I staggered and Wolf Bird strolled) into Lake Morena Campground a couple hours later. I felt like I literally couldn’t walk another step. I collapsed onto a picnic table and chugged some water while Wolf Bird wandered around the extremely poorly marked campground looking for the park office. He found us a campsite and set up our tent while I lay useless.
We then walked about a half mile down the road to a small store that sold hot food and got chicken finger baskets. Having food and Gatorade was a welcome treat after such a hot day, but I was so exhausted that I had very little appetite and had to take half of mine to go (shocking, I know!).
We camped with a bunch of other PCT Hikers around us and even got to shower as the campground had a bathhouse! What a luxury on day one. I finally felt a bit rejuvenated by the time we went to bed.
A lot has happened since we left Portland 21 days ago. Too much to capture every detail but we wanted to share a couple highlights from our road trip. We are so grateful for all our friends and family we visited along the way.
We are sitting on a Delta plane in Detroit watching a ridiculous safety video so it seems like a good time to do a post. Also Julie did the last one so I feel guilty.
Portland to RPH Shelter in NY
We left Portland on Monday, April 10th and drive about 4ish hours to a shelter on the AT famous for being able to order pizza from the shelter. We didn’t want pizza, but we did want to camp for free. This turned out to be a great spot though Julie said it gave her the creeps when she stayed here on her thru hike.
I was excited about it because it was so close to the road and I had heard about it. I had no idea that it was so close to the road but it’s right off a little back road of the Taconic Parkway. You can you see it from the road and it looks like a little cinderblock house.
We were a little nervous about parking because there were no parking signs everywhere near the trail and we read online that the local community was cracking down for fear of drugs. After some driving around I found a spot about a half mile away in between two properties with some high grass. No one bothered us so I think we chose well.
Highlight moment for me was using the privy with the door open and a full moon. Pun intended. We slept well and it was a great first night.
RPH Shelter to Frederick & Hagerstown, MD
I got up early and made coffee and prepped to make breakfast while Julie slept in a little longer. That is our standard routine, I get up and mill about aimlessly and she sleeps as long as she can. Usually she can’t sleep that long because I am so loud.
We had a great breakfast of eggs, avocado, and I added some leftover beans and hamburger from the night before, then we hit the road to go visit Matt, Olalla, and my family.
It was the first time that Julie met a lot of them and it has been a whirlwind social tour for her meeting as many of my friends and family that we could fit in. She handled it like a champ and probably liked at least one or two of them.
We got to Frederick around 4 and met Matt for drinks. It was great to see the area where he is opening a new Rockwell Construction office.
During our visit to the area we got to see Matt’s family, both my sisters and their families, Gramps, and my mom. We had a blast visiting and a highlight was running 3 miles with my sister Steph before her race on Saturday, which she got 2nd place! It was probably because of my positive influence.
Hagerstown to Comers Rock on Jefferson National Forest
Jefferson National Forest was one of our favorite stops on our trip. Again we were seeking some free camping and a cool spot. Julie is really good at researching and finding hidden gems. We got there around 7 and the sun was about to set, so we set up our tent and grabbed some food to cook up at the summit of Comers Rock. It was beautiful and we had the summit to ourselves.
After dinner we headed back to camp and we got ready for bed. An SUV showed up and we thought they were going to be a rowdy bunch, which was true, but they were a quiet, rowdy bunch and didn’t impact our sleep. I did wake up at 4am and they were still awake chopping wood for the fire.
The next morning when they left I told Julie I wanted to see the campsite because I knew it was going to be interesting so we walked over and we were pretty shocked at what we found. They had strewn trash everywhere. It was really sad and an eye opener for us. We spend a solid 15 minutes picking up empty booze bottles.
After seeing this scene we started noticing litter all around us and it was making us feel pretty indignant. Everywhere we turned someone had deliberately just discarded garbage into one of the most pretty pieces of public land.
It is shocking to see how little people appreciate access to such a wonderful place. It’s no wonder we are letting this access be called into question by the current administration. We tried to do our part by collecting every piece of litter we saw.
Highlights of this part if the trip:
Cooking dinner at the summit of Comers Rock
Picking up litter
Free primitive, dispersed camping
Skinny dipping in a pond (just me)
Spending the day by the pond drinking beer, eating cheezits, and swimming
Seeing a bobcat, deer, and a lot of turkeys
Sherpa screaming and running out of the privy because a bat attacked her (turned out to be a bird)
Finding garlic mustard
Jefferson National Forest to Charlotte
We left Jefferson National Forest to head to Blufton, SC to have Easter dinner with my Grandma and some family. We noticed that our route was taking us right through Charlotte, where Sherpa’s friend Ashley lives. We stopped in to visit her and saw her amazing apartment and had lunch at a delicious taco place. We also went for a really nice walk in a park that Ashley showed us. Mabel loved getting in the water and she got a lot of attention from the children nearby.
The highlight for me, besides seeing Ashley, was my carnitas taco! I love carnitas.
Charlotte to Bluffton, D.C.
After the park we drove to my Grandma’s house. We had an amazing time and we were so lucky that our trip took us by her house right on Easter. This was the first time I had seen her home in Bluffton and Sherpa’s first time meeting everyone except my dad. We were able to see Grandma, Dave, Kathy, Bill, Dad, and Beth! We were laughing hysterically within minutes. Such a great crew to visit.
Before we arrived I told Julie that Grandma and Dave have a way of decorating their house so that it feels like a place you just want to sit and read for hours. Rarely have I felt so content to simply be as in their home.
Highlights
Dinner on both nights
Lots of beautiful birds and wildlife
Seeing Grandma and Dave beautiful place
Dave showing us downtown Bluffton
Bluffton, SC to Little Talbot State Park
We were sad to go but excited to see the beach. We took off around 11 after saying goodbye to Grandma. We first headed to Savannah, GA where we spent some time walking around the downtown. We got some delicious ice cream (Mabel included) and went for a walk in a park and by the river. We then headed south to the Jacksonville area without a specific plan. We had an eye on a campsite at Little Talbot State Park but they don’t allow same day reservations so we had to drive there and cross our fingers that there would be an open spot. We were in luck! There were two spots open. We set up our tent and then headed to a restaurant at nearby Amelia Island/Ferdinanda Beach. We sat in adirondack chairs and ate seafood and drank beers. We were chatted up by a woman from Delaware and Mabel also growled at some children and was put in time out. After dinner we went to South End Beach for the sunset and Julie wouldn’t let Mabel get near the water because she was afraid of sharks! She had spent a lot of her good Googling time looking up shark attacks and scaring herself to pieces. We headed back to our campsite and went to bed.
Highlights
Lucking out on finding a campsite
Putting Mabel in timeout
Julie making us walk in circles looking for the bathroom when all along I knew it was right next to the campsite
Little Talbot State Park to Fort Clinch State Park
After breakfast we went for a 4 mile walk along the beach in Little Talbot State Park. We were amazed at how such a beautiful beach had so few people. Who passed the turn in the trail and we went to the end of the beach and at the mouth of the river or Bay of some kind, there were Rangers taking pictures or observing a flock of birds that looked very diverse.
Just passed them there was a pool of water that was teeming with schools of fish and jumping fish. On the way back we found the trail that headed into the woods and within 50 yards we spotted a large turtle in the shade.
There was no other Wildlife to speak of though Julie was scared of panthers. When we finished hiking, we stopped at the ranger station to see if we could camp another night. They said they were full but gave us a list of other campgrounds. I started calling them and found that Fort Clinch had a spot open. I got off the phone and just as a van pulled up and an older man jumped out and asked if they had any spots. They of course said no but Julie and I looked at each other and started a brisk walk back to the car.. We started sprinting to the car after we are just out of sight. LOL!
Julie speaking now. We sped to the other State Park and luckily secured a spot. This state park was right at the mouth of a river and our campsite was a 15-second walk to a small beach with hammocks. We spent the rest of the day at an awesome bar slash restaurant right on the beach near the state park. We got tropical drinks and tasty food and Mabel enjoyed our lazy lifestyle. Wolf bird went for a little swim in the ocean and we later made some dinner and ate it while watching the sunset over the water by the hammocks. We went to bed and I couldn’t fall asleep because there was a consistent rustling in the woods rightness are tent. Wolf bird was of course asleep after 30 seconds so I had to listen to the sounds and wonder / worry what they were all alone. I had phone service so I looked up Florida Panthers and read some very frightening stories about the Resurgence of the Panther population. Usually rustling noises won’t freak me out too much if it gies5 away but this rustling lasted for nearly an hour. I really had to pee but I didn’t want to get attacked by a panther so I had to wake up wolf bird. He was not too happy but like the true gentleman he is, he shined the light in the woods and reassured me that it was probably only a gator. How comforting. He was kind enough to accompany me to the bathroom where we heard more rustling right in the woods outside of the restroom building. As he was shining the light he figured out what it was. And right at that moment I turned to see a little silver and gray rat looking reptile scurrying by the bathrooms. It was an armadillo! Apparently armadillos are nearly blind and deaf so it really was not that scary after all. And reading about them later we found out that armadillos jump about four feet into the air when frightened which leads to them often being Roadkill when they jump into the undercarriage of cars.
After Armadillo SightingsHighlights
Finding an awesome beach bar
Sunset at the mouth of the river next to our campsite
Armadillo sightings in the middle of the night ( really it was only 10:30 p.m.)
Fort Clinch State Park to The Villages
We spent a good chunk of the day at the beach. We set up the tent fly and made an awesome Shelter From the Sun where Mabel and I could not get sunburnt. We eventually headed south to The Villages to see my mom and dad. We arrived around 9 p.m. I was excited for them to spend some quality time with Mabel as I knew they would love her and her perfect behavior.
The Villages
We spent about five or six days in The Villages. It was so great to see my parents before setting off on our hike. They of course were won over by Mabel and she clearly enjoyed the Florida retired lifestyle. We spent a decent portion of our time doing some last-minute Trail prep but we also got to do some fun activities as well. I am so grateful to have such a supportive parents. They even are taking on the task of mailing us our food drops along the Trail which we can’t thank them enough for.
Highlights
Watching Mabel and my parents fall in love
Getting lunch at cool spot on a lake with my parents
Spending some time at the pool
Talking to our waiter /future murderer
My mom describing in Vivid detail her trashy, creepy murder novel
Watching my dad’s expression when he looked at the PCT map we gave him
The Villages to Lake Alfred, FL to The Villages
(Wolf Bird) Almost forgot one of the best parts! We made a quick visit to see Grandpa and Pam. It was so nice seeing their winter home finally. They seem to have built such a beautiful life and it was nice to be a part of it for a moment.
Highlights
Seeing Grandpa and Pam for the first time in years
Amazing Mexican food
The Villages to Athens, GA
(Wolf Bird) We said goodbye to Julie’s parents Amber attempting to drive all the way to Knoxville Tennessee. On the way I posted that we were headed to Knoxville and Shuffle posted that we should stop and see her in Athens. I really wanted to see her however I was really tired so we talked about it for a little while but then finally decided we definitely needed to see her and her boyfriend Josh. They just got a new cabin and it is amazing. We were both so glad that we decided to visit that because it’s been so long.
We drove to their cabin and as soon as we got out of the car Mabel and kabu got in a fight. Poor cow who had to be put away for the evening. And we stayed up late chatting the next morning we walk their property and took a look at the amazing 10 acres that their land sits on surrounded by water and a reservoir. We are both so excited for their new place and can’t wait to see how it evolves.
At about 11 o’clock we went into Athens and stop by clocked and had Burgers which were amazing. After that we said goodbye and headed to Knoxville.
Highlights
Reunion with Shuffle
Learning about their new cabin Adventure
Walking the property
Athens, GA to Knoxville, TN
After lunch we got in the car and drove to Knoxville Tennessee. The trip was short and with only if within a few hours we were already hanging out with friends. It was so good to see everyone and we had many fun nights while we did last minute prep.
We were very sad to leave Mabel behind but we know she’s in really good care has she has an entire Village to take care of her.
Highlights
Having dinner every night at Kevin’s house with some of my closest friends
Seeing Brendan for the first time in a long time
Bushwackers
Knoxville, TN to San Diego
This morning we got up around 4 a.m. and got ready to leave for a flight. Erin Emory was nice enough to drive us to the airport and our trip went off without a hitch. We are now sitting in a tree house at a trail angels home about to eat free dinner and get a free ride to the southern terminus to begin our PCT Adventure. Thank you to everyone who has helped us make this possible including a generous hosts Scout and Frodo!
