Tag: thruhike

The past three nights Delta and I have been staying with our friend Thorny who we hiked with during the 100 mile wilderness back in Maine. We hadn’t seen him since then way back in July so it was great not only to have a place to stay but also to see an old friend. Thorny lives outside Front Royal, VA. He slackpacked us for two days, one easy 11 mile day and then a long 24 mile day in Shenendoah National Park. Hiking in the shenendoahs was a crazy experience because the park is technically closed due to the government shutdown. Thorny said that this time of year is usually super busy in the park, with traffic all throughout skyline drive, the road running the length of the park. The AT crosses skyline drive many times— we probably had seven or eight crossings in the one 24 mile day alone. It was eerie—the roads were silent and empty and littered with leaves. The parking lots and overlooks stood silent and uninhabited. It was pretty cool being the only people in the park besides the rangers. Some thru hikers ahead of us were spotted by rangers while hiking in the park while it was closed and were kicked out. So we had to be careful. It was kind of fun running across the road crossings where the rangers might spot us.

The shenendoahs are absolutely beautiful especially this time of year. We haven’t been in real mountains since Vermont/NH so it feels good to finally have beautiful views again. The foliage is so colorful and pretty as well. I couldn’t help but grin as I walked down the leaf covered trail. We also spotted three bears! Well delta saw the mom and two cubs but I only saw one of their bums. Better than nothing I guess.

It was also great slackpacking only carrying water and snacks for the day. It’s amazing how easy hiking is when you’re only carrying a few pounds! Not to mention, we were spoiled to the max during the three days we spent with thorny. He was the best host I could ask for. Seriously, I am so grateful for him. We got to shower nightly and do our laundry (twice!) and watch movies and sleep in a real bed. But not only that… He made us breakfast each morning and dinner at night and took us out to eat. He had to drive an hour to take us to the trail twice and did so happily. He is such an incredibly kind, not to mention awesome person. To prove that point, consider this.. He just returned from a solo trip to South America where he participated in a raft race down the amazon river… In which participants had to build their own rafts. Anyway, we were so spoiled and enjoyed it thoroughly. It was tough to leave but luckily the government reopened so we have lodges with snacks and such in the shenendoahs now.

Miles today: 6.9
Total miles: 1167.5

Guess what: rain again today! Boo. Luckily it was an easy 7 miles to town but they dragged on in the gross weather. We crossed the border from Maryland into West Virginia. Hello state number 10! There is an ATC office in Harpers Ferry and they take thru hikers photos here, keeping track of the numbers of hikers each season. Thus it is a rite of passage and a kind of halfway point (although we’ve already passed halfway in miles a few days ago). We walked through the quaint historical town of harpers ferry (again, the history nerd in me would’ve loved to explore more but didn’t due to the weather). We finally got to the ATC office and I was surprised to find myself a little chocked up. I think seeing firsthand the office and ATC sign I’d only seen in pictures before really hit home that I’ve made it halfway. I am so proud of myself and so grateful to have come so far. I don’t think I even believed I could walk all the way to West Virginia from Maine. But I’ve done it! I warmed up inside and browsed all the hiker photos and waited for the rest of the crew to get here. We got our photos taken–I am Southbounder 130 for the season. After that we went and got food at a local Italian place and then i picked up my new shoes at the post office. I got my old shoes back in Monson Maine at mile 115, so these have lasted me over 1000 Miles. But they are on their last legs–the traction is totally gone and the soles are peeling (thanks Pennsylvania rocks). I loved the shoes and when ordering a new pair wanted the same ones. I called Keen and submitted a warranty form and was shocked to find out they accepted it–keen gave me new shoes for free! I was very excited to pick them up at the post office all pretty and clean and not smelly. After that we checked into the Teahorse Hostel for the night. Had the weather not been so terrible I probably would have went on but to keep my sanity and stay warm I let myself enjoy a night inside and warm.

Miles today: 16.6
Total miles: 1160.6

It was rainy out today and cold. We had planned to maybe get to Harpers Ferry today but the weather nixed that plan. The trail crosses a lot of interesting historical sites, mainly locations civil war battles, but I didn’t spend as much time as i wouldve liked reading the info guides due to the rain. It was a steady downpour at some points in the day but wouldnt have been terrible had it been warmer out. I took cover under a little pavilion with only 3.8 miles to the shelter. I got freezing cold after breaking for a while and mustered up the energy to get hiking again. It was raining so hard and the trail was one giant river. I was so fed up with the weather and just wanted to be at the shelter so I booked it as fast as I could. I power walked/jogged the 3.8 and passed both Blue Sky and Delta who had left a while before me. I made good time and got to the shelter in under an hour. We were all so glad to change into warm dry clothes and get in our sleeping bags. The shelter was really nice and we slept in a little loft. Later in the evening the rain and wind picked up even more. As the drops beat down hard on the roof I was grateful not to be out in the rain. I haven’t encountered rain that strong in a long time. Can’t wait to put on wet cold clothes tomorrow. Not.

Miles today: 20.7
Total miles: 1140.0

We had a lazy morning with lots of breaks. After about three miles we crossed the mason Dixon line from PA into Maryland. State number 9! The trail then went straight through a state park with a beautiful scenic overlook. We lounged on the benches there for an hour or so. Then we got back to walking and took a long lunch at Raven Rock Shelter. The shelter was just built in 2010 and was so nice. It looked like a little Lincoln log cabin and had two floors and nice big windows and fire pit with benches around it. It was pretty chilly out today though, probably in the 50s so I cut my lunch shorter than the guys and set off walking again around 1230. The rest of the day the trail was pretty easy. Maryland has been more rocky than I expected but nothing I can’t handle. Toward the end of the day three miles from the shelter for the night I met a guy who had thru hiked three times before. His trail name is Hit. He was really interesting and had some great advice, having hiked both north and southbound and learned a lot about what works and doesn’t. Even better, he stopped by the shelter after I got there and gave Blondie and me the best trail magic. He’d just been out for a night and gave us nearly all his leftover food (and his two friends, Czech girls also gave us theirs). We were so grateful and amazed by his generosity–we devoured the chips, sausages, chocolate, gummy worms, and even beer. He also gave me new batteries for my headlamp which I desperately needed. I hope to be able to give backto the trail and future thru hikers in a similar way after I finish. Well it’s off to bed for me. It is supposed to be cold and rainy all day tomorrow. And for the next few days I think. Not looking forward to it but oh well, what can you do.

Miles today: 17.9
Total miles: 1123.4

I slept so well last night bundled up in my sleeping bag against the cold night air. It’s been so warm lately that the nights have also been mild. This made it far more difficult to get up in the cold morning. Putting on my still wet and freezing hiking clothes from yesterday caused me to scream much to the entertainment of my fellow hikers.

The hiking today was really nice. Some rolling ups and downs but in general pretty easy trail. It was nice to have the crisp fall air back–much better hiking weather. We caught up to Potter, who we’d last seen in Duncannon. Yesterday we’d been talking about the buffets in Waynesboro, the upcoming town we planned to go into to resupply. We planned to go in tomorrow, but as I was hiking I got to thinking how nice it’d be to go today. When we were all taking a break this morning I looked in the guide and found an earlier road we could hitch into town from, letting us be able to go today instead. I talked up the buffet and got everyone on board! Food convinces hikers of anything pretty easily. With thoughts of food distracting us, the day seemed to fly by.

I got to the road around 345 to find Blondie. We got a hitch amazingly quickly to the Walmart and resupplied quickly. As we were packing our food in our packs outside the store, a man offered us a ride back to the trail. We told him we were going to a buffet two miles down the road and he said he’d drive us. Awesome! We didn’t even have to hitch. As we finished packing up and were waiting for him to finish his shopping, another guy came and offered us a ride. People in this town are so nice.

A short while later we were at Golden Corral. It was me, Blondie, Delta, and Blue Skies. flaco and Potter had yet to show up. We wasted no time pigging out and all getting multiple plates. It was heaven. Seriously, what a deal. I ate so much food. For only $10.99! I have to go to buffets more often. As we began our venture into dessert, flaco finally showed up. No one had picked him up so he’d had to walk several miles. Apparently the kind people we’d encountered didn’t see him. After we ate all we could handle we realized we had maybe overdone it. We had some trouble just sitting normally, let alone even walking to the bathroom. It was a tough time in my life. Possibly the only time I’ve definitely felt like I couldn’t eat more. If you know me you know how rare/nonexistent this feeling is for me. Finally we recovered enough to venture outside and try to find a hitch. It was getting late and the sun was setting. Luckily a nice woman in a mini van packed us all in and we got back to the trail. We walked a very short distance, found the first relatively flat ground and set up camp for the night, going to bed with uncomfortably full stomachs.

Miles today: 13.6
Total miles: 1105.5

It was rainy today and cold and not fun to walk in. We passed the real halfway point (no marker though) which was exciting. We felt lazy today and cut the day way short. We got to the shelter by 1 and it was so incredibly nice. There were two separate little shelters connected by a covered breezeway with a picnic table. There were hanging plants and potted plants and a little gate. And even cards and checkers. The shelters in this section are all maintained by the Potomac ATC and are apparently all pretty nice. It was a great place to call an early day

I made a hot lunch for the first time and spent some time reading and relaxing. When Flaco and Delta got to the shelter the four of us played cards. We discovered that Canadians call the game BS “cheat”. How adorable. Silly Canadians. It was a nice easy and relaxing day and I only felt a little guilty when the rain stopped and we didn’t hike any further.

Miles today: 22.9
Total miles: 1091.9

We were up early due to the sounds of the taunting ducks. It was supposed to be super hot today– a predicted high of 87. I was anxious to get the miles out of the way for that reason and also to get to Pine Grove Furnace before the store there closed. Why you ask? Pine Grove Furnace is where hikers do the half gallon challenge. It’s located right near the halfway point of the trail and hikers eat a half gallon of ice cream in one sitting as tradition. People time themselves and try to do it as quickly as possible. In the summer the store is open everyday but since its October it is only open on weekends now. It just so happened that I was passing by on a weekend so I took that as a sign I must do it.

It was almost 20 miles to Pine Grove Furnace and they were very hot and sweaty miles. I don’t know how I walked through a heat wave back in Maine. I guess since I didn’t know anything different at the time it didn’t feel so bad. But now, having hiked in cooler weather, the heat (and humidity) is tough. Im glad it is not like this everyday.

Blondie, Flaco and I got to Pine Grove Furnace by 3 or so to find Delta had already successfully completed his half gallon challenge. They didn’t do actual cartons of ice cream. Rather, the girl working at the store had to scoop the ice cream by hand into two cups. It definitely seemed like less than a half gallon but oh well. Unfortunately since its so late in the season they only had vanilla left. That probably would’ve been my last choice flavor. But I took it as an added challenge to do a flavor I dislike. While waiting in line at the store I talked with some teachers in town for an ATC training about how to incorporate the outdoors in their classrooms. I talked to them very briefly so I was surprised when one of them offered to pay for my half gallon for me. So nice. I ended up eating mine fairly casually since it wasn’t really a half gallon and we all were a little disappointed by that. However I was sure not to eat TOO casually… I made sure to beat Blondies time of 17 minutes by doing mine in 15. Flaco claims he beat me but he didn’t time himself so who knows. We were obviously all still hungry after so we got burgers and fries. Then a nice day hiker gave us leftover food she had: marshmallows and pumpkin praline brownies–which were SO good and tasted like fall (I got made fun of for saying that buy I stand by it).
After all that eating we then had there or four miles to hike to the shelter. I was actually full of energy and the miles flew by. We passed the halfway point which was so exciting! Or well it was a halfway marker from 2011… The mileage of the trail changes slightly each year so our “real” halfway wasn’t for a couple more miles but this was the only spot with a marker so I celebrated as if it were our actual halfway.

We got to the shelter.. Or rather set of shelters, there were two smaller ones next to each other.. As it was getting dark. There were two other sobos there, sumo (a girl!!) and mr blue sky. I’d met them way back in Rutland VT before I got off trail. It felt good to catch more people and see familiar faces.

I’m writing this a while after this day actually happened and I just recently found out one of the two shelters burned down right after we stayed there! Crazy. I don’t think they know how the fire started but it burned totally to the ground only a day or two after we left.

Miles today: 21.6
Total miles: 1069

It was so hot out today–mid 80s. An much of the trail went through fields and farmland, which was nice but especially hot with the sun beating down on us without trees to block it. About 17 miles of the trail passed through the Cumberland Valley. Here the trail is nice and flat so the walking was pretty easy and flew by. I really love the field walks and walks through corn fields–it’s a nice change of pace and seeing the farms is a glimpse into a life far removed from what I’m used to. The trail goes right through Boiling Springs PA where there is an ATC branch office. It was closed though due to the government shut down. Oh well.

Blondie, Delta and I went to get food at a local pizza place (Flaco was behind us bc he stopped at an earlier road crossing to get a milkshake). On the way into the restaurant a couple asked where we were hiking and when we said to Georgia they grew so excited and wished us the best of luck. We only talked to them for a minute or two so we were surprised when the man came over to our table a couple minutes later and gave us $20 to use for our hike. It was so unexpected and so incredibly generous. Seriously, I cannot say it enough, I am amazed at the selfless generosity of strangers throughout this hike. We decided to use the communal $20 to spend solely on appetizers. We got cheesy bacon fries, garlic bread, pizza fries, and onion rings. Flaco showed up just in time to help us eat it all. Then we ate our meals. Hiker hunger at its best.

Flaco, Blondie and I needed to resupply so we walked a mile to the grocery store as it grew dark out. Delta didn’t need food so he set out three miles for the next shelter. After we got our food, it was late, around 8 or so. We had planned to go to a campsite only 0.5 miles away but we saw a note in the trail register that said freight trains WILL wake you up. Soo we slept in a gazebo right next to the ATC building basically in the town center. Nearly definitely against the rules but oh well. We regretted our decision in the morning when none of us had slept well due to geese honking the entire night. To make matters worse their honks sounded exactly like taunting laughter so it was like we were being made fun of all night. Rough life.

Miles today:4
Total miles 1047.4

We planned to go about 11 miles today after resupplying and doing laundry in town. We got up and had some delicious breakfast where we ran into even more SOBOs: Han SOBO and Noodles who had just gotten back on trail after a wedding, skipping ahead to Duncannon from CT. it’s great to be catching up to more people after feeling behind for so long. As is usual in town we were being lazy and slow moving and took a while to buy the food we needed and do our laundry. It was also so incredibly hot out for October–mid 80s and humid, so we were less than motivated to hike. I looked up what time the ice cream place opened and when we found out it was 2 we decided to wait around for it. I had a delicious two scoop cone. Both Blondie and Delta had a milkshake AND two scoops of ice cream. Then we had to hike. Which started with of course a nice big uphill out of town. It was so humid and hot that we all got so sweaty immediately, almost defeating the purpose of us doing laundry in town. Oh well. The guys all convinced me to give in and only do four so we stayed at the first shelter rather than walk seven more, arriving at what would have been a late time, after 7.

Miles today: 22
Total miles: 1043.4

Happy birthday Blondie! Our destination for the day was Duncannon PA. In particular, the Doyle hotel in Duncannon. We’ve been hearing since Maine about how the Doyle is gross and falling apart but how we have to stay there. Apparently it’s a thru hiker tradition. So that’s where we were headed. The day went by pretty quickly. Passed on guy sitting in a sleeping bag on a rock at around 10:30 am and he said hello to me and I said hi back and asked how he was doing and he responded “well I just woke up on this rock so I’m doing great”. Interesting sleeping location choice.

After about 19 miles I got to a road and then had a few miles of road walking to do into town. I was curious what Duncannon would be like. After crossing a bridge over the Susquehanna River, I saw my first glimpses of Duncannon: a gun shop and a strip club. This would be a fun place. Got to the Doyle and found out I was the first to arrive. After 15 minutes during which I chugged water at the bar, Blondie (who’d treated himself to ice cream on the way), Flaco, and Delta showed up. We got rooms and took showers and then got dinner in the restaurant part of the Doyle. The Doyle is over 100 years old and definitely is not the nicest place. We had sheets as our curtains HA. But I really didn’t mind, I was happy to feel clean after my shower and enjoy a nice big burger and fries. After dinner delta and I of course wanted more food so we walked down the street to get ice cream. Delta was super impressive–he ate two huge scoops of ice cream and a milkshake. After dinner the four of us and another new SOBO friend, Potter, hung out on the Doyle’s balcony. We had a good time laughing at some local teens throwing a stick at each other across the street for entertainment.