Month: December 2013

After Gatlinburg, I spent two more days hiking through the Smokies. Unfortunately pretty much that entire time was spent in a cloud. So instead of incredible views, I could see no more than thirty feet in front of me. At least it wasn’t rainy. We climbed Clingmans Dome, the highest point on the AT which was cool, but again no view. Luckily the temperatures were warmer so a lot of the snow and ice had melted, making the hiking significantly easier.
The Smokies are the most visited national park so even though it was the middle of the week we saw a couple groups of section hikers. We stayed with two at a shelter one night and were delighted when they offered us beer and sandwiches. I saw what I think was a coyote one day. It ran away as soon as it saw me. There are apparently wild hogs all over the smokies–you can see pushed up dirt all around the trail where they’ve dug up. I would freak out if I saw one–they are huge and have big tusks and can run fast. I luckily didn’t see any but two SOBOs behind me saw four.
The day delta and I left the smokies we stayed at a shelter nicknamed the Fontana Hilton because its so clean and spacious. Crunchmaster and gospel, SOBOs that caught up to us in Hot Springs, caught up to us again so it was nice to have company in the shelter for a change. Gospel was jumping ahead about 100 miles the next morning though because he’d hiked those miles earlier in his hike when he was home in Georgia for a wedding.
The day out of Fontana was off and on rainy but luckily not cold. Also it was almost entirely uphill and a long-ish day at 22 point something miles. I actually was doing well pacing myself on the uphill and the day was flying by and didn’t feel too bad. But the final four or so miles were a tough uphill that felt never ending. I also had run out of water and was hungry but didn’t want to stop to eat because it was rainy and getting colder and darker by the second. Eventually I made it to the top and put on an extra layer. Delta had kindly waited for me and we had to use headlamps for the last mile or two as it was dark. But it was still hard to see because it was super foggy. I went to bed pretty exhausted that night–it was one of the more physically trying times I can remember recently.
The next day we had a seven mile downhill down all that climbing we’d done the day before. Our goal for the day was 18.4 miles to cold spring shelter. Since it was a shorter day, we planned to stop at the Nantahala Outdoor Center (right on the trail) at their restaurant for lunch. When we got to the NOC, delta checked his phone and we found out we would end our day right there. We’d been talking to (get this) deltas best friends uncles brother, who lives near the trail and offered to host us for a night. He’d left delta a message that he’d pick us up at the NOC, a day (and twenty odd miles) earlier than we expected. I couldn’t complain though, I was excited for a warm bed and shower. We had time to kill until he picked us up so I had lunch with delta, Breeze, and Crunchmaster. Then about an hour later, cool blue and Blondie showed up! Their 30 mile days had allowed them to finally catch us. I was glad I got to see them before they flew by us. I said my final goodbyes to them which was a bit sad–I’d hiked with each of them for over a month and don’t know when I’ll see them again. But I’m glad they are finishing together.
Eventually delta and I got picked up and had a great afternoon that included a hot shower, running errands, having a delicious steak dinner, and enjoying the company of Pat and Holly, the generous couple that took us in. We somehow convinced them to slack pack us the next day. So today (Saturday) I hiked (slackpacked) my biggest day ever of 27.5 miles. We did it northbound though and ended up passing blue and Blondie which made for a hilarious encounter. But we had a nice long lunch with them and then said goodbye…again. The long day actually wasn’t bad at all and a significant portion was downhill (main reason why we did it northbound). We didn’t even have to night hike–we hiked from 7 to 5:10. Tomorrow (Sunday) we set out again and won’t be going into another town before we finish. We have three days of rain to look forward to which I’m really dreading. But lots to be happy about–only 110 miles left, crossing into Georgia in a day and a half and almost to my goal!!!! Right now the plan is to finish on Friday (yes it’s Friday the 13th, lets hope I have good luck though). My parents and brother (who is flying down to visit my parents) will drive up from Florida to meet me at springer and might even walk the last mile with me. I can’t believe the end is so near. I have so many mixed feelings about almost being done. I’m excited and sad at the same time. I know I’ll miss my life on the trail and the many people I’ve met. I suppose I have the next few days to process it all.

First off, Asheville was amazing and I want to move there. I’m sad I didn’t get to spend more time there. I have to go back sometime.

It’s been three days since getting back on trail after my weeklong vacation. I definitely feel the difference–I’m super sore since I’ve been out of my daily routine for a while. I’ve also developed new pack sores where my pack is rubbing my skin raw for some reason so that’s fun.

So far the Smokies have been pretty good. Our first full day of hiking in them was beautiful, sunny, and clear with great views. These mountains are HUGE and it’s crazy to look down and see just how far down it is to the valley floor. The temperatures haven’t been too low either. It’s definitely chilly but the temps here can get absolutely frigid and luckily we haven’t experienced any of that yet. I’ve actually been hot at night of all things! A thru hiker I met in hot springs who had already finished is letting me use his zero degree bag instead of my 15 degree bag and I’m noticeably warmer at night now, thank goodness. The hiking in the smokies has been tougher than I expected. Part of that is the huge uphill– we had a 5000 climb to get up to the ridge line in the park and its lots of ups and downs everyday. But what has made the hiking tougher than usual is the snow and ice. You know how when you go sledding you have to trudge all the way back uphill to sled back down again and you are always super exhausted by the time you get back to the top? That’s what hiking in the snow has been like. Except with heavy packs on. There are also sections of trail that are pure ice and every step feels like I am about to lose my footing and fall. The combination of the snow and the time off trail has led to me feeling more exhausted than usual.

Today delta and I hitched into Gatlinburg with the intention of resupplying then hitching back and hiking five more miles. But by the time we got to town we’d only have had an hour and a half to get everything done and decided to just stay in town. Kind of a wimp decision but oh well, I need the rest. Gatlinburg is a super touristy and hoakie town with tons of restaurants and old time photo places and mini golf and mirror mazes etc. it was very overwhelming but also hilarious to walk through. Back on the trail tomorrow for two more days in the Smokies. Tomorrow I hit the 2000 mile mark and also hit under 200 miles left. Wahoo! It’s supposed to rain for about a week straight after that which I’m not too excited about but I won’t have to deal with that too much longer. I just found out about three people who just got off trail, two in Hot Springs and one at the end of the smokies. It’s so sad to hear about friends leaving and giving up especially so close to the end!! I’m determined to keep going, I will crawl up springer if I have to.